8 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit

8 DAYS - 7 NIGHTS
  • 8 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit

8 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit . Embark on the most scenic and well-paced expedition to Mount Kenya’s Nelion Summit (5,188m / 17,021 ft) with Ahambi Tours. Our 8-day technical climbing itinerary via the Chogoria Route offers extended acclimatization, stunning landscapes, and a world-class alpine rock climb to one of Africa’s most iconic summits.

This itinerary is perfect for climbers who want a slower, more scenic approach and extra buffer time for weather, recovery, and acclimatization. You’ll trek through bamboo forests, glacial valleys, and high alpine zones—culminating in a multi-pitch technical ascent of Nelion via the legendary South Face Standard Route.

Why Choose the 8-Day Chogoria Option?

Unlike the shorter Sirimon-based climbs, this Chogoria Route:

  • Offers more gradual altitude gain
  • Passes through some of Mount Kenya’s most beautiful landscapes
  • Includes additional acclimatization and a rest/reserve day
  • Increases your chances of a safe and successful summit

This is our most recommended option for international climbers coming from sea level or seeking a richer wilderness experience.

Route Overview: South Face Standard Route

The climb to Nelion follows the classic South Face Standard Route, a technical line praised for its rock quality and alpine feel. Highlights include:

  • 16 to 18 technical rock pitches
  • Graded UIAA IV+ to V (YDS 5.6–5.9)
  • Fixed belay stations for safety

The summit push begins from Austrian Hut, with the full climb and descent taking 8–10 hours depending on fitness and conditions.

Who Is  this 8 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit For

This expedition is designed for climbers who:

  • Have multi-pitch trad or alpine climbing experience
  • Are in excellent physical condition
  • Are comfortable with rope systems, exposure, and altitude
  • Want extra time to acclimatize and enjoy Mount Kenya’s diverse terrain

Why Climb with Ahambi Tours?

Ahambi Tours is a local leader in technical climbing expeditions on Mount Kenya. We offer:

  • Certified and experienced technical guides
  • Trekking guides for approach via Chogoria
  • All technical climbing gear provided
  • Emergency support, radios, and flexible scheduling
  • Personalized service with low guide-to-client ratios

Our 8-day Chogoria program is designed for climbers who value safety, scenery, and summit success.

Best Time to Climb Nelion

The best season for Nelion via the South Face:

  • December to March – ideal dry conditions and clearer skies
  • Sunrise climbs maximize daylight and safety on summit day

Our team monitors conditions and adjusts summit plans based on weather and climber readiness.

8 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit Itinerary 

This itinerary allows for a scenic trek, altitude acclimatization, rest days, and a technical summit. It includes a buffer day to improve safety and success rates.

For a full, detailed itinerary of the 8-day Nelion climb via Chogoria Route, click the itinerary button above.

Our 8 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit Package Includes:

  • Professional technical climbing guide (1:2 ratio)
  • Professional trekking guide via Chogoria Route
  • All park entry fees, climbing permits, and government levy
  • All meals and accommodation on the mountain
  • Tents, porter services, and support staff
  • Technical gear: ropes, protection, belay systems
  • Transport from and back to Nairobi
  • Emergency communication and mountain response system
  • Extra acclimatization and rest day
  • Certificate of Achievement upon successful summit

Price for 8-Day Nelion Climb (USD per person):

Pax Price in USD
1 $2,100
2 $1,850
3 $1,720
4 $1,590

The 8 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit Packing Checklist

We provide all technical group gear. You should bring:

  • Climbing shoes, harness, helmet
  • Waterproof and layered clothing system
  • Sturdy mountaineering boots
  • Lightweight sleeping bag
  • Sunglasses, gloves, water bottles, headlamp

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: Is Nelion climb suitable for beginners?

A: No. Nelion is a technical climb and requires experience with multi-pitch trad or alpine climbing.

Q: Why choose the Chogoria Route?

A: It offers better acclimatization, scenic beauty, and a more gradual approach to altitude.

Q: Is Howell’s Hut available?

A: Yes, it’s a basic summit shelter used on summit night.

Q: Is a climbing guide mandatory?

A: Yes. Kenya Wildlife Service requires all technical climbs to be guided by certified professionals.

Q: What if weather delays the summit?

A: The 8-day plan includes a buffer day to allow for poor weather or rest.

Q: Will I receive a certificate?

A: Yes. All successful climbers receive a Certificate of Achievement from Ahambi Tours.

Book Your 8-Day Mount Kenya Climb to Nelion Summit Today

Enjoy the most comprehensive and scenic route to Nelion’s summit with Ahambi Tours. Our 8-day Chogoria climb combines technical adventure with a world-class trekking experience.

To Book: Website: ahambitours.co.ke Email: info@ahambitours.co.ke WhatsApp: +254 725 727167

1

Day 1: Nairobi – Chogoria Town – Chogoria Gate (2,950m)

Your adventure begins with a morning pick-up from your hotel in Nairobi at 7:00 AM. Drive towards the eastern slopes of Mount Kenya to Chogoria town (210 km, approx. 5-6 hours), followed by a transfer to the Chogoria Gate. Enjoy a short acclimatization walk before settling into camp for the night. The trek covers 10km with an altitude gain of 600m.

Approximate drive time: 5-6 hours
Trekking distance: 10km
Altitude gain: +600m
Accommodation: Camping at Chogoria Gate

2

Day 2: Chogoria Gate – Roadhead (3,300m)

Trekking distance: 10 km

Altitude gain: +350m

Time: 4–5 hours

Begin your trek through the dense Chogoria forest, home to colobus monkeys and diverse birdlife. Ascend gradually along a scenic trail that opens into heathland as you approach Roadhead.

Overnight: Roadhead Camp (3,300m)

3

Day 3: Roadhead – Lake Michaelson (3,985m)

Trekking distance: 9 km

Altitude gain: +685m

Time: 5–6 hours

Continue uphill through the Gorges Valley, with incredible views of towering cliffs and cascading waterfalls. Descend briefly into the stunning Lake Michaelson basin, one of Mount Kenya’s most picturesque locations.

Overnight: Lake Michaelson Camp (3,985m)

4

Day 4: Lake Michaelson – Mintos Hut (4,300m) – Acclimatization Day

Trekking distance: 6 km

Altitude gain: +315m

Time: 3–4 hours

Today is an important acclimatization day. Climb steadily to Mintos Hut on the edge of the Gorges Valley, arriving in time for lunch. In the afternoon, take a short acclimatization hike to higher ground and return to camp.

Overnight: Mintos Hut (4,300m)

5

Day 5: Mintos Hut – Austrian Hut (4,790m)

Trekking distance: 5 km

Altitude gain: +490m

Time: 3–4 hours

Hike through the high alpine zone toward Austrian Hut. The trail traverses rocky terrain and passes the Lewis Glacier. Arrive at the base of Nelion in the early afternoon and rest before the technical ascent.

Overnight: Austrian Hut (4,790m)

6

Day 6: Austrian Hut – Nelion Peak (5,188m) – Return to Austrian Hut

Climbing distance: ~400 vertical meters

Altitude gain/loss: +398m / -398m

Time: 8–12 hours round trip

Number of pitches: 15–18 technical climbing pitches

Begin the technical climb of Nelion Peak (5,188m) via the Normal Route, starting early morning. The climb involves multi-pitch rock climbing (graded IV–V), requiring ropes, helmets, and climbing harnesses. At the summit, enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers. (Optionally, climbers with time and skills can traverse to Batian and back.)

Descend to Austrian Hut for the night.

Overnight: Austrian Hut (4,790m)

7

Day 7: Austrian Hut – Shipton’s Camp (4,200m)

Trekking distance: 6 km

Altitude loss: -590m

Time: 3–4 hours

Descend via Simba Col and the beautiful Mackinder’s Valley. This less-traveled route offers unique views of the northern faces of the mountain and a sense of remoteness.

Overnight: Shipton’s Camp (4,200m)

8

Day 8: Shipton’s Camp (4,200m) – Old Moses Camp (3,300m) – Nairobi

Trekking distance: 14 km

Altitude loss: -900m

Time: 5–6 hours trek

Driving distance: Old Moses Camp to Nairobi – approx. 230 km (6–7 hours via Nanyuki)

After breakfast, begin your descent through Mackinder’s Valley, retracing your steps back through the moorland and heath zones. Arrive at Old Moses Camp (3,300m) by midday for lunch, where your vehicle will be waiting.

From here, drive through Nanyuki and onward to Nairobi, arriving in the evening. This marks the end of your 8-day Mount Kenya technical climb to Nelion Peak.