6 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit

7 DAYS - 6 NIGHTS
  • 6 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit

6 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit Ready to take on Mount Kenya’s second-highest peak? At 5,188 meters (17,021 ft), Nelion Summit offers one of the most exhilarating technical climbs in Africa. Unlike the trekking routes to Point Lenana, reaching Nelion requires multi-pitch alpine rock climbing—ideal for experienced trad climbers ready for a serious vertical challenge.

This 6-day expedition by Ahambi Tours offers the perfect combination of high-altitude trekking, acclimatization, and technical climbing led by certified mountain professionals. Whether you’re preparing for Batian or taking on Nelion as a standalone summit, this climb is designed for safety, success, and unforgettable scenery.

Route Overview: South Face Standard Route

Your summit attempt follows the legendary South Face Standard Route, known for its solid volcanic rock, clean crack systems, and exposed alpine feel. This classic line features:

  • 16 to 18 rock pitches
  • Difficulty: UIAA grade IV+ to V (approx. YDS 5.6–5.9)
  • Several fixed belay points
  • Overnight shelter at Howell’s Hut on the summit

Climbers begin from Austrian Hut early on summit day, with an estimated 8–10 hours for the full ascent and descent.

Who This Climb Is For

The Nelion technical climb is not for beginners. You should have:

  • Experience with multi-pitch trad or alpine climbing
  • Good physical condition and altitude acclimatization
  • Familiarity with belaying, rappelling, rope systems, and exposed terrain

New to technical climbing? We recommend starting with a trek to Point Lenana before attempting Nelion.

Why Climb with Ahambi Tours?

Ahambi Tours specializes in technical climbs on Mount Kenya. We offer:

  • Experienced technical climbing guides with deep knowledge of the route
  • Trekking guides to lead your acclimatization and approach hikes
  • Safe rope systems, emergency support, and careful pacing
  • Local insight into Mount Kenya’s geology, wildlife, and climbing history

We tailor your experience with personalized support and a 1:1 or 1:2 guide-to-climber ratio for maximum safety and success.

Best Time to Climb Nelion

The best season for the South Face ascent of Nelion is:

  • December to March

This period offers the most stable weather, ideal rock conditions, and longer daylight hours. Summit climbs typically begin before sunrise to take advantage of clear skies and dry rock.

6-Day Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit Itinerary 

This 6-day adventure combines a well-paced approach, proper acclimatization, and a summit push via the South Face of Nelion. The itinerary is designed to maximize your success while prioritizing safety and altitude adjustment.

For a detailed, day-by-day itinerary of the Nelion Technical Climb, click the itinerary button above.

Our Package Includes:

  • Professional technical climbing guide (1:2 ratio)
  • Trekking guide for approach and descent
  • Park fees, climbing permits, and government levy
  • All meals during the trek
  • Accommodation in mountain tents
  • Porters, cooks, and full mountain support crew
  • Technical climbing equipment: ropes, anchors, protection
  • Round-trip ground transport from Nairobi
  • Emergency response system with radio communication
  • Certificate of Achievement upon successful summit

Price for

6 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit (USD per person):

Pax Price in USD
1 $1,700
2 $1,450
3 $1,340
4 $1,230

What to Pack for the 6 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit

Bring the following personal gear:

  • Climbing shoes, harness, helmet
  • Warm layering system, rain jacket, mountaineering boots
  • Gloves, sunglasses, sun protection
  • Sleeping bag (lightweight for Howell’s Hut)
  • Headlamp and refillable water bottles

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: How technical is the Nelion climb?

A: It’s a UIAA IV+ to V climb with 16–18 rock pitches. Multi-pitch experience is essential.

Q: Is Howell’s Hut available for overnight stay?

A: Yes. It’s a small emergency shelter located at the summit of Nelion.

Q: Can I climb Nelion without summiting Batian?

A: Absolutely. Nelion is a full summit experience and doesn’t require continuing to Batian.

Q: Is a guide mandatory?

A: Yes. Kenya Wildlife Service regulations require a certified guide for all technical climbs.

Q: What makes this different from Point Lenana?

A: Nelion is a technical rock climb with rope systems and protection, unlike the non-technical trek to Point Lenana.

Q: What if the weather turns bad on summit day?

A: We always include a contingency plan in your briefing and may delay the summit for safety.

Book Your 6 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb to Nelion Summit Today

Conquer Africa’s most dramatic alpine summit with confidence. Ahambi Tours offers a seamless, professionally guided experience to help you reach the top safely and enjoyably.

To Book: Website: ahambitours.co.ke Email: info@ahambitours.co.ke WhatsApp: +254 725 727167

1

Day 1: Nairobi – Sirimon Gate (2,650m) – Old Moses Camp (3,300m)

Approximate drive time: 5 hours
Trekking distance: 9km
Altitude gain: +650m

Your journey starts with a morning pick-up from your hotel in Nairobi at 7:00 AM. Drive to Sirimon Gate (220 km, approx. 5 hours) and complete park entry formalities. Begin the trek through lush montane forests and moorlands to Old Moses Camp.

2

Day 2: Old Moses Camp – Shipton’s Camp (4,200m)

Trekking distance: 14km
Altitude gain: +900m

Trek through Mackinder’s Valley with stunning views of Mount Kenya’s peaks. This is a crucial acclimatization day as you ascend to Shipton’s Camp, located at the base of the peaks.

3

Day 3: Shipton’s Camp – Teleki Hut (4,300m)

Trekking distance: 8km
Altitude gain: +100m

Today’s trek is a breathtaking journey through the rugged terrain of Mount Kenya’s alpine zone. Departing from Shipton’s Camp, the route takes you through the dramatic Hausberg Col, offering panoramic views of the towering Batian and Nelion peaks. Along the way, you’ll pass stunning rock formations, glacial valleys, and crystal-clear alpine tarns that reflect the sky like mirrors.

This section of the trek is shorter, allowing ample time to acclimatize and soak in the high-altitude atmosphere. The crisp mountain air and ever-changing landscapes make this a truly immersive experience. Upon arrival at Teleki Hut, you’ll settle into camp with awe-inspiring views of the peaks ahead, preparing mentally and physically for the upcoming ascent.

4

Day 4: Teleki Hut – Austrian Hut (4,790m)

Trekking distance: 6km
Altitude gain: +490m

A steep trek takes you to Austrian Hut, the launching point for the technical ascent of Nelion. This day allows for final acclimatization and technical gear preparation.

5

Day 5: Austrian Hut – Nelion Peak (5,188m) – Austrian Hut

Climbing distance: 4km (vertical ascent)
Altitude gain/loss: +398m / -398m

Summit day! Start before dawn for the 18-pitch technical climb via the Southeast Face of Nelion. This climb requires proper ropework and solid rock-climbing skills. After reaching the summit, descend carefully to Austrian Hut.

6

Day 6: Austrian Hut – Chogoria Gate – Nairobi

Trekking distance: 20km
Altitude loss: -1,840m
Drive time: 6 hours

Descend through the stunning Gorges Valley, passing Lake Michaelson and Vivienne Falls. Take a short detour to the breathtaking Nithi Waterfall, a hidden gem offering spectacular views and a refreshing stop before reaching Chogoria Gate. A 4×4 transfer takes you to Chogoria town, followed by a drive back to Nairobi.